Pocket Watch Jewel Settings


Craig Duling

Craig Duling, an antiquarian horologist, is a former engineer that currently serves as the CEO of Heritage Management Services. Craig Duling also owns and operates Heritagepocketwatch.com, where he applied his expertise in the evaluation of antique timepieces.

When evaluating pocket watches, it is important to assess the quality of the movement as well as the condition of the dial and case. Jewels are an important watch component that help to reduce friction at movement pressure points and ensure the watch operates correctly over a long period of time.

Pocket watch jewels come in several forms, including round shaped hole and cap jewels, angled pallet jewels, and pin style impulse jewels. Jewels can be set with friction, where they are pressed into a tight hole that keeps them secured. Watches with friction set jewels are typically less expensive and lower quality. Another method to set jewels includes the use of small screws which attach to the movement plate. Screw set jewels can be flush with the plate or a raised style where the setting’s rim is slightly elevated. Watches with screw set jewels are often higher quality pieces.


Vacheron Constantin – A History of Precision and Elegance from Geneva


Vacheron Constantin pic

Vacheron Constantin
Image: vacheron-constantin.com

Craig Duling’s love for rare antique pocket watches inspired him to create a website to share his knowledge. At HeritagePocketWatch.com, fellow collectors and interested readers can find out the history of pocket watches and accessories of all types. Craig Duling provides extensive information on luxury brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and the less-well-known, but equally stunning Vacheron Constantin.

In 1755, Jean-Marc Vacheron signed-on his first apprentice in his Geneva, Switzerland, watchmaking workshop, and a legendary company was born. That year also marked the manufacture of the earliest known of Vacheron’s extant works, a silver pocket watch.

Jean-Marc’s son Abraham continued in his father’s trade. Abraham Vacheron married the daughter of another watchmaker, and eventually went into business with his father-in-law as A. Vacheron Girod.

Jean-Marc’s grandson Jacques Barthélémi Vacheron took over in 1810 and expanded the family business considerably. Under Jacques Barthélémi’s leadership, the company began to acquire clients from Europe’s royal houses and to produce even more complex mechanical marvels, including musical timepieces. It was Jacques Barthélémi who concluded the partnership with entrepreneur François Constantin.

Vacheron Constantin has produced masterpieces such as an 1824 watch whose case shows a map of Italy done in enamel of varying shades of light and dark blue, with yellow gold traceries. The company is additionally renowned for its production of pocket chronometers, such as a fine precision piece manufactured in 1869, during the time of major European explorations of the world. The brand remains an icon today.

Who Invented the Pocket Watch?


 Pocket Watch pic

Pocket Watch
Image: historyofwatch.com

Craig Duling serves as CEO of the San Francisco company Heritage Management Services, Inc., and devotes time to philanthropic endeavors. In addition, Craig Duling has studied and collected antique pocket watches for four decades. He shares his love of pocket watches and their history on his website HeritagePocketWatch.com, where readers will find advice on collecting and appraising watches, as well as articles on their history.

With Smithsonian magazine calling the pocket watch the “first wearable tech game changer” in the world, the importance of the pocket watch to human civilization is readily apparent. The precise origins of the pocket watch may be lost in history, although medieval people were familiar with mechanical clockworks. Renaissance-era portraits show men holding watches of various types suspended from ribbons or chains, in an era where simple mainspring technology flourished.

Some authorities believe the pocket watch was invented by Italian makers in the 15th century. Many others point to Peter Henlein, the Nuremberg watchmaker and creator of a single-hand device early in the 16th century. In any case, both men and women were using portable watches in the 1500s. The earliest models were egg-shaped and bulky, but they were soon replaced by flatter case shapes.

King Charles II of England is said to have popularized the securing of pocket watches by chains. When he introduced the wearing of waistcoats in the late 17th century, he provided men with a fashionable way to carry their pocket watches.

Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications with Astronomical Features

Patek Philippe pic

Patek Philippe
Image: patek.com

In addition to leading Heritage Management Services, Inc., as CEO, Craig Duling focuses much of his efforts in the philanthropic sphere. Also an antique pocket watch collector in his leisure time, Craig Duling maintains the Heritage Pocket Watch site to share his love of classic timepieces. One piece his website highlights is the contemporary Patek Philippe men’s Sky Moon Tourbillon Model 5002P, which features a star chart and is valued at nearly $1.5 million.

The story of Patek Philippe tradition of astronomical complications begins with The Packard grand complication, which was created in 1927 at the behest of James Ward Packard, the maker of the Packard automobile. The watch comprised 10 complications, including a moon phase display, as well as sunrise and sunset times and a celestial chart calibrated to the location of Packard’s mansion in Ohio.

In 1933, Patek Philippe created the Henry Graves supercomplication for one of America’s preeminent bankers. Featuring two dozen complications, the piece still stands as the most complicated pocket watch in history. Among its complications were a Westminster chime minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, and a celestial night sky chart set to Graves’ New York City residence.

Today, the Sky Moon Tourbillon represents Patek Philippe’s most complex wristwatch and features between its two dials a dozen complications, such as retrograde date and perpetual calendar. In addition to its star chart, the watch has an elliptical sky vault that shows the real-time orientation of the visible celestial sky.

How Quartz Movements Keep Time

Quartz pic

Image: explainthatstuff.com

Pocket watch collector Craig Duling is the expert behind http://www.heritagepocketwatch.com. Craig Duling’s website showcases his collection of rare and ornate watches and provides a wealth of information about the history and inner workings of various timepieces.

Timepieces that are based on pendulums or springs require winding to help them keep time. Winding is a form of stored energy, which gradually depletes through friction, air resistance, and other forces.

Quartz watches use a battery in place of a winding mechanism. A battery can store enough energy to run a timepiece well for years. In a quartz clock, the battery delivers energy to a small crystal. This crystal will always vibrate at a specific frequency: 32,768 times per second. An electronic circuit in the timepiece is able to count these vibrations, which allows it to generate a small electric pulse exactly once a second.

These repetitive electronic pulses keep time just like the escapements in a mechanical timepiece. They can be used to turn gears that move timepiece arms, or they can be used to power a small display in a digital timepiece.

Periodicals Published by the American Numismatic Association

American Numismatic Association (ANA)


Craig Duling is an antiquarian horologist that operates the http://www.heritagepocketwatch.com website, an informational website that specializes in information related to rare timepieces. In addition, Craig Duling is active in charitable organizations, is an active member in the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, and is a lifetime member in the American Numismatic Association (ANA).

Founded in 1858, the American Numismatic Association (ANA) is a non-profit organization devoted to coins, currencies, and similar items. The organization, which is headquartered in Colorado Springs operates a pneumatic library and a collection of more than 800,000 items, which date to 650 BCE. In addition to these resources, the society operates a publication program.

The publication program of the American Numismatic Association (ANA) originated in 1866 and includes books, monographs, research, and periodicals. The organization’s periodical collection includes the American Journal of Numismatics, which is a peer-reviewed scholarly journal. In addition, the organization publishes the Colonial Newsletter, which focuses on coins from the colonial and confederation periods, and the ANA Magazine, which is a quarterly periodical for the society’s members.

Which Watches Have the Highest Value?


An avid watch collector in Atherton, California, Craig Duling runs the Heritagepocketwatch.com website. Through this online portal, Craig Duling provides his audience with information about some of the world’s rarest and most valuable watches.

The art of watch making has produced stunning timepieces that have attracted the eye of collectors across the globe. Some of the most impressive of these watches have sold for more than $1 million at prestigious auctions, making them the most expensive of their kind. Here are a few of the watches that have the highest net worth:

Vacheron Tour de l’Ile
Vacheron has been making watches for more than 250 years, the longest of any manufacturer. One of its most valuable pieces is the Tour de l’Ile, a watch that has two faces and numerous complications. Each of these features has contributed to its value of more than $1.2 million.

Patek Philippe Caliber 89
Worth $5.1 million, the Caliber 89 remains the single most complicated watch, with more than 30 complications. Even more impressively, the watch contains over 1,700 different components that combine to weigh in excess of two pounds. Patek Philippe staff spent a total of nine years researching and creating this unique timepiece.

Patek Philippe Supercomplication
Created on commission from Henry Graves Jr. in 1927, the Supercomplication was specifically designed to be the most complicated timepiece on Earth. The resulting pocket watch boasted 24 total complications, a golden frame, and two distinct faces. Eventually, the Supercomplication sold for $11 million in a Sotheby’s auction.

Gifting Luxury Watches

There are several momentous occasions in which finding the perfect gift can be a very tedious task. Weddings, graduations and milestone birthdays are some of these particular occasions. When considering buying a gift for one of these celebrations, it is often decided that a watch is the perfect gift. However, when gifting a watch, it is important that you follow some basic guidelines when selecting the perfect timepiece for the recipient. More information on watch gifting can be found here: Meaning of watch gifting

When gifting a watch for a graduation or wedding, it is important to make sure that you find a quality timepiece. If you simply buy an old watch, the watch loses sentimental value. It is important to remember that the watch you are gifting is likely to become a family heirloom that is passed onto future generations for the same occasion. Because of this, it is common practice to not just purchase a watch, but to uniquely customize the watch. Both a wedding and a graduation mark the end of one’s success and the beginning of a brand new adventure. So when creating this watch, be sure to do so with great care and thought.

Now when gifting a timepiece for a birthday, you do not just buy an ordinary watch, nor do you usually gift one for an ordinary birthday.  Both a wedding and a graduation mark the end of one’s success and the beginning of a brand new adventure.When your are giving a watch to someone on their birthday, it is usually a milestone birthday such as their 18th, 21st or 50th. When gifting on a milestone, it makes the present that much more spectacular. You also don’t want to give a brand new custom watch as you would for a graduation or wedding. Instead, it is usually customary to find a watch that was manufactured the year that the recipient was born. For example, if you are considering getting your grandfather a treasured timepiece on his 50th birthday next month, you would want to purchase a watch that was manufactured in 1967. A great example would be, the Oyster Perpetual Sea Dweller manufactured by Rolex in 1967. It is very important when purchasing an older watch to ensure that it is not a fake. You can find more information on how to identify a luxury watch here:

How To Recognize Fake Rolex GMT Master II

How to Recognize A Fake Rolex Yacht Master II

How to spot a fake Rolex Submariner

Spot a fake Rolex Submariner

rolex-submariner-51616156-5-2Let me begin by jumping right in and giving you a list of what to look for since this is why you chose to read this article.  At the end of this list please take time to read the article because it will help put the list in perspective.
An authentic Rolex Submariner model (newer model such as the 116610) should have the following.

  1. When you set the time and rotate the winding stem clockwise the hands should also rotate clockwise.  This should be the case for Rolex watches in general.  If the hands rotate counter clockwise you have a fake Rolex movement.
  2. When you pull out the winding stem the second hand should stop moving.
  3. When you rotate the bezel, there should be 120 clicks per 1 complete revolution.
  4. The Submariner has a sapphire crystal.  An easy way to determine if the crystal is sapphire is to place 1-drop of water in the center of the crystal and see if the drop remains in place and keeps its shape.  If it does, it is sapphire.  If the water drop spreads out flat and runs off the crystal it is not sapphire.  All Rolex watches have a sapphire crystal.
  5. The Rehaut is the name for the inner bezel.  This is a french word for flange. The inner bezel is the ring that separates the dial from the crystal.  If one carefully examines, with a loop, the word Rolex which is laser etched into the Rehaut the letters will be extremely smooth and sharp.  In a fake, the laser technology is too expensive to use and the letter engraving will appear to look slightly rough.
  6. At the 6 o’clock position on the underneath side of the crystal there is a Rolex crown symbol etched into it.  This micro-etching began in 2002. This will be almost impossible to see with the naked eye.  In an authentic Submariner you will need a magnifying glass to see it and even then one will need to angle the watch to just the right position. In fake Submariners you will easily be able to see it because the “knock-off” manufacturers don’t want you to miss it.  If it is easy to spot, you have a fake.
  7. Look at the Cyclops magnifying lens that envelops the date at three o’clock position. The true Rolex magnifies at two and a half times and has a definitive convex shape to it.
  8. The hour markers, hands, and the dot in the triangle on the bezel ALL should illuminate in the same teal color in the dark.  Hold your watch under a light (flashlight, table lamp, etc.) for a few seconds and then enter a closet and close the door and see if this is the case.  Many fakes use the cheapest hands they can buy and these hands can illuminate in many different colors.
  9. On the Submariner there should be 3 dots below the crown symbol on the winding stem.
  10. The edges of the bracelet links should be smooth and have no sharp edges.
  11. On the back of the case the protective plastic cover on the 116610 should be clear and not green.  This is assuming of course that the protective cover has not been removed.  Most fake manufacturers don’t realize that Rolex did away with the green colored cover and continue to use it.
  12. Finally, check out the caseback. Rolex doesn’t make a clear caseback that enables you to see the movement so if you turn a watch over and you have a clear window in which to observe the movement, you know it is a fake. Another caseback trick is that many fakes engrave the Rolex name and crown logo on the caseback. A true Rolex has no engraving on the back.
  13. An authentic Submariner with a stainless steel bracelet, with no links having been removed, will weigh 158 grams.
  14. A high-end fake may meet the above requirements except for numbers 5 and 10 so you still need to be very careful.
  15. There are many more things I could mention but I don’t want the counterfeiters to learn too much good information.  Remember that there are more fake luxury watches produced each year than authentic ones.  This is difficult to imagine but it is true because this is a BILLION dollar a year industry.

Full-length article can be found here: Heritage Pocket Watch How to spot a fake